2022 Holiday Greetings from KE0SBX

 Hi everyone!

Wow, it's been a year already! It's nice to finally see faces again after almost 2 years. Hopefully, you are staying healthy and keeping ham radio alive and well. At my QTH, it's beginning to look (and especially feel!) like Christmas.

This year has certainly been an interesting year for my ham radio adventures. I feel that I officially have my station set up to the point where I can make full-on contacts. I have already crossed the pond on 15m to Italy successfully and have made dozens of FT8 contacts in and out of the continent. I am experimenting with many different modes including RTTY and Feld Hell, so hopefully, I can carry on a QSO using one of those modes.

It's been a bit since I touched upon the MFJ Cub, and I wanted to update everyone on my progress. Last night I powered it up using the Hammo Can and to my surprise, it generated some background noise! This is significant because I can't recall hearing anything when I initially tested it. Needless to say, it's best to go back over your work. Testing and tuning up is the next thing for me on the docket.

I finished up my college finals on December 11th and have been looking for things to do in between work and daily life. Ham radio seems to always come to mind. There is never a dull moment on the airwaves where I live, and tuning into my new Eton shortwave radio has given me more access to the airwaves than before.

By the way, I have a new YouTube channel up and going! There isn't anything on there yet, but I will definitely be putting things up. I have a few things in mind including my antenna setup and some background on the TS-660. You can find it here at KE0SBX. Stay tuned for some content!

As we go into 2023, I want to wish you all the best in your ham radio experiences and in your daily lives. Keep being amazing human beings and keep exploring what wonderful things the hobby has to offer. My New Year's resolution is to be proficient at Morse Code by the end of the year. I've put it off for far too long and I have too many CW rigs lying around and collecting dust! I'm aiming for 15 wpm, but I'd feel fine at even 10.

Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays everyone! Hope to hear you in the new year!

73s, 88s, and all the best,

- Owen Graham, KE0SBX

Updates on the Cub's Conditon/Hammo Can Completion

From the looks of it, the Cub is in stable condition, but unfortunately, I haven't tested it yet. 

Recently, I went back over my board and resoldered the bad pads. I also went ahead and rewound the toroids since I didn't scrape off the enamel properly. The board looks 10x better and now all that's left is to clean off the excess flux - and test to see if it works.

For anyone wondering how I solved my problem, I started a thread on QRZ.com with a little common sense to help. You can find the posting here. What started as a simple question about testing tools soon turned into a diagnosis forum (also, just build a proper dummy load/wattmeter!). Other hams began offering me helpful tips and possible problems, and the number one problem was my solder connections, followed by my toroids.

Fixing both, I opted to uninstall the BNC connector. I just didn't feel comfortable mounting it to the board, so I opted for the RCA jack. Amazon sells adapters so this won't be too much of an issue for me. 

In addition to fixing the board, my Hammo Can is fully complete! Running between 12.6 and 13.8V at 15Ah, I have calculated and estimated that it will run for about 3 hours continuous on transmit and about 13 or 14 hours on standby. This, of course, is if I use my TS-660. On my FT-2200, I expect that the battery life will be much shorter. I have an additional 3.1A coming off of a USB accessory plug, but this shouldn't be too much of an issue. It is a little heavy, but it weighs as much as if it were full of ammunition. Charging time is about 15 hours max, and the most I could get out was 13.8V on one charge - perfect for ham radio! The wiring harness isn't too bad - I solved the bunching-up issues with nothing but zip ties. With some help, the wires lay nicely in the case.

Believe it or not, there is still room for cables. There is even room for the charger which is not very large at all. Now I have a power supply I can use at home or in the field, and here's the best part - there is NO switching noise at all on the Kenwood! There's nothing but a beautiful and flat noise floor. Bye-bye, Lyle/Pyramid 30A power supply!

How much was it, you ask? I'm putting it around $50 or $60 - exactly how much I wanted to spend, and exactly how much anyone should spend on power. Here are the links to everything I got:

• Battery: Mighty Max 12V 15Ah
• Charger: 12V SLA Charger with Short-Circuit Protection
• USB Port: 3.1A USB Hub w/ Fuse
• Binding Posts: 10pcs 4mm Binding Post
• Switch: Heavy-Duty Rocker Switch, ON/OFF
• Ammo Box: Plastic Ammunition Box Waterproof
• Wire Connections: 79-Piece Assorted Kit Crimp Connectors
• Wire: 12AWG Red and Black

Here are some photos:

I used this power supply to talk to Italy, so I'd consider this a huge success! It's easy to build, so if you're going out to the field soon or helping with EMCOMMs, consider building one of these. For a bit more, you could put it all in a metal ammo can rather than plastic, but either will work just fine. I'd recommend recharging it after you come back from your adventure or connecting it to a float charger. This will give you a full battery for next time!

Crossing the Pond on 10W and a Prayer

We did it, I officially crossed the pond today! And I learned some valuable lessons along the way.

I came home from school to eat lunch and figured that I should operate on 15m for a while. Lately, 15m has been super active, so I figured I should throw out my callsign to see if someone came back. I heard a few people collecting callsigns, so I waited to send mine out until I was confident that's what they were doing. One station, in particular, was IK4GRO in Northern Italy. I'm not quite sure what he was running but I was getting 5x8 and 5x9 signals on my meter. 

After waiting a few minutes, I threw out my call. Nothing. I tried again, but still nothing. After a dozen or so tries of trying to break through the QRM and QRN, I got through. Unfortunately, he got my callsign wrong, but that's expected since I was QRP. Instead of KE0, he got KE1. I let it go for a while before throwing my call back out.

After 5 or 6 tries, I got through! I got a 4x4 report and I gave him a 5x8 report. Not bad for a contact I had been hoping for for a long time!

Of course, I learned a lot just from this single contact, and I'd like to share that with you...

1. Patience is everything!

It took me dozens of tries to get through to IK4GRO. It wasn't easy. Sometimes, you just have to persist until they hear you. A 4x4 report means that I could be heard with a little noise at an S4 or so on the meter. On QRP, you will have to try harder to make contacts.

It may take you 1 call or maybe 50 calls, but you will eventually get through. On other occasions, you might have to give up and move on. It's all part of the fun!

2. Get a good antenna

Okay, hams are all about amplification, but in theory, an antenna makes the difference. Amplifiers don't add much, maybe only half or up to 1 S-unit. That would've only gotten me to S5 - not much of a difference.

I ordered a tactical antenna from HRO which I plan on taking to the field. Speaking of the field, that's the next tip I learned.

3. Get out of the house!

Find a place where there are little to no buildings and obstructions. You'll want some trees to mount your antenna in. Try to find a place that is elevated, flat, or near water (water is a good reflector!). I have many places around where I live to go out and operate QRP. 

Here's the other perk - you get to go into the great outdoors and enjoy some nice weather! You might walk into one of your friends and start a conversation. I have found that the more I talk to my friends about it, the more interested they seem. Had I gotten out of the house today, I hypothetically think my signal report would've been better.

4. Time of day matters

My TS-660 is a daytime radio - that means that it will only work from a bit before sunrise to a bit before sunset. I'm gone during the day so I don't get much action unless I listen to stations on my shortwave receiver. For the past week, I have listened to 15m via my shortwave, and I have heard at least 100 stations over the past week or so. This was all done around 2 or 3pm in the afternoon. 

5. A decent microphone works best

Stock microphones aren't bad, but they're basic - a condenser and a PTT button. Higher-end microphones have everything from preamps to audio filters. It's not really necessary but it might help. I found myself cupping the mic constantly trying to get the best acoustics for my voice. 

I have several more lessons that this contact taught me, but these have got to be the most important ones. I also want to say thanks to IK4GRO for calling me back despite operating QRP and the QRM that we experienced. Although I got a 4x4 rating today, it's better than not getting a call at all. 

Many, if not all hams say that 10W SSB is impossible. Today, I did the impossible and defied the odds. I wonder if this is how Marconi felt when he made the first radio transmission...

Here's a Snapchat video clip of the signals I received from IK4GRO today on 21.332.8MHz:

Until next time, I'll see what else this great little rig can pull off!

The Cub Is...Dead???

 Yep, you read the title correctly.

The MFJ Cub is dead.

Learning CW: How Difficult is it? PART 2

With the recent purchase of my MFJ Cub, I've decided to bite the bullet and commit myself to learn Morse Code. 

In a previous article, with the same title, I described my process of learning CW. Here's the problem - I'm just as guilty of procrastination as you are and I never did it. I still haven't done it... and I'm over here with anywhere from 2 to 4 hours of free time during the day.

At Long Last, The CUB!!! (And how to make a dipole for it!)

 At long last, I have you now, Cub! After 2 or 3 weeks of waiting for it, I'm hoping it will be worth the wait.

In the meantime, I looked over the PDF instructions to see what I was working with. I will need some alignment tools, and some might just be rudimentary. I did manage to find my NanoVNA in a drawer on my workbench, so this week has been good... up until I began running a low grade fever and felt like I was going to pass out at any given moment.

Not sure what happened, but you can all breathe - it was NOT Covid. My guess is that I got overheated at band practice or something else. I'm not quite sure what happened with me, but I'm feeling just a bit better.

Introducing the Hammo Can - portable ammunition for your rig!

 Do you go portable with amateur radio? Perhaps you have a favorite QRP rig like the Yaesu FT-817/818, or a 100W like the FT-891. What if you don't have access to AC mains? Your power supply becomes useless. What if you don't even have a power supply or you're on a budget? Are you sick of your noisy, awful switching power supply? Can you not afford a large and bulky linear PSU?

Well fear not, because I have the solution for you! What if I told you that for well under $100, you can build a portable, battery-powered power supply from an ammo can? Yes that's right - for under $100, you too can make an almost watertight battery pack that will last you in the field for hours! Did I mention that it comes with a USB port for your phone to charge too???

An analysis of the 15, 12, and 10-meter bands

 Do you ever wonder if there's any ham that's not on 80, 40, or 20 meters? I sure do, especially since I mainly do my work on 15, 12, and 10 meters. I have the capability to do 6 but I don't have the tuner (hooked up, at least) yet to access this band. After about a year of on and off operating, here's my analysis of the only bands I can access at the moment. I'm capped at 10W, so this could affect my signal strength and what my experiences are. 

15 Meters

15 meters is the most busiest band by far that I've heard. It's mainly stateside or contacts in the Caribbean or South America. Most traffic is FT8 or Morse but I've heard the occasional RTTY or CW from W1AW. I've also heard the fellow operator many times in the house who goes by the name Kenmore. Up to this point, this is the only frequency band that I've made successful contacts on and they've only been on FT4 and FT8. 

I'd like to do more though. I have thrown out dozens of CQ calls on voice, RTTY, PSK31, and even Feld Hell, but to no avail. There are frequencies for these modes, but they're dead all the time. I have been spotted several times but no one comes back to me on these modes. It got me wondering if it could be my antenna setup, or maybe it's because my entire setup is inside. 

12 Meters

12 meters is a nice band and because it's a WARC band, it's a safe haven from contest pileups. Yes, there are data and voice segments. I rarely hear traffic on this band, but during contest season, it piles up fast with people who are non-contesters. I've mainly heard voice, the occasional CW, and FT8 on this band.

Although it's a small band it's still useable, but not for me. Unfortunately, my antenna tuner refuses to load my EFHW under a 2:1 SWR without compromising power. It's just impossible! Maybe an auto tuner or different antenna can solve the issue???

10 Meters

Many amateurs report that this band is littered with stray CB operators, but from what I can tell, this band is pretty dead. Except for FT8, which is still far and few between, there is nothing here where I'm at. It's kind of sad because Technicians have the capability of using the 10m band for SSB voice and most are excited to get this privilege on HF. Unfortunately, I've not heard a single voice on this band in the entire time that I've owned and operated this radio.

10 meters is also VERY susceptible to changing solar conditions, even more sensitive than the other HF bands. Perhaps the solar weather isn't the best right now?

What should you do?

Keep calling. When I ran FT8 the first time, I had to call 15 times before someone came back to my CQ call! Given my current rate, I'd be calling CQ forever before someone came back to me on voice or RTTY. Just because the band seems quiet doesn't mean it's dead - someone could be listening for a CQ call to answer, you just never know. There are plenty of skimmers on PSKReporter and RBN, but unfortunately they only look for CW and RTTY CQs. They claim to look for PSK31 but so far I haven't seen anyone spot my PSK calls.

You could also consider increasing your power but the magic in ham radio is doing more with less, at least I think so, so I'd strongly discourage amplifier use. In fact you're required to use the minimum power necessary to carry out a contact. If 10W can do it, use 10W. If you need 50, use 50. I'm looking at getting a Yaesu FT-891, but I think I'll wait until conditions (economic conditions, that is) improve. Better yet, you could update your antenna system. You'd be surprised how well an antenna improves your signal and station setup. I run an EFHW random wire throughout the top of my room. It tunes up well, but I'm sure a dipole would do me wonders. I could probably load easier it on 12 meters, too. For starters, placing my antenna system outside would definitely change things.

Although I think it's kind of cheating the system, ask another ham friend that lives a state over for a QSO and test how far you can go. Or you can try spotting yourself on an SDR. I've tried this and I've heard my own RTTY signals being sent, with the SDR station near Washington, D.C.. I'm sure I could hear myself sending FT8, but that's impossible to confirm.

If you're in town, consider moving to a less dense area like a park. My radio is large, but I'm sure I could take it anywhere and I'm sure it would fit on a picnic table with ease. Where I live, I have a university that I attend with lots of trees and open space - perfect for mounting a simple dipole and making some contacts!

Other things or "lurking variables" could hinder your station performance. Such things include RFI from appliances and power supplies (it's real, believe me. And yes, do yourself a favor and buy a linear or battery supply!!!), current weather and solar weather conditions, and so much more. As I've mentioned before, ham radio is one large and ongoing science experiment that we all take part in. 

I hope to make some contacts on other modes. FT8 is great but it's gotten a bit too boring for me. If you'd like, tune to the 15, 12, or 10m bands - you might just find me there!

Hope to hear you down the log! 

An update on my Station Overhaul as of 8-24-2022

Slowly but surely, my packages from Ham Radio Outlet have been arriving to my doorstep. So far, I have to say I'm impressed with my products.

MFJ Cub: Prospective QRP Project

Well, it's been a while, hasn't it? I guess I'd better start posting again about my latest adventures...

Recently, I've been considering doing one of many projects. I had the option to build my own travel trailer, give a complete makeover to my car, or pursue my hobby of amateur radio further. All the pursuits above have one thing in common: cost.

With that in mind, I settled to invest in my hobby. 

How to Make Your Own PCBs

     PCB making has been around for a while. It's a neat and tidy alternative to the messy deadbug or Manhattan-style construction. You can find PCB designs online or you can create your own. 

    To begin, you'll need the following:

• A LaserJet printer and glossy photo paper - This is mandatory since an Inkjet printer will NOT work. LaserJet printers print in a special way that gives the best results. You can also use paper called Press-n-Peel paper that is specifically manufactured to create PCBs from laser printers.
• PCB board (FR4) - I recommend you get the single-sided type. These can be bought from Amazon. Double sided boards work if you're needing a 2-layer PCB, but keep in mind this will be a bit more difficult to work with.
• Iron - The heat from an iron will transfer the image to the PCB board
• Sharpie - Needed to cover any parts that weren't covered by the ironing process
• Acid etchant - This is where things get interesting, see a more in-depth description below
• Drill bits - Can be bought from suppliers like Amazon. You'll need them small enough to drill holes for lead wires

That's practically it! Now to begin...

• Design your PCB board - There are so many choices when it comes to software. You can use KiCad, EasyEDA, or any other PCB fabrication software. 

• Prepare the board for etching - You'll need some steel wool for this step. This requires you to remove the oxidized layer of the FR4 board. Scrape it off until the copper is shiny and golden-looking. This is a crucial step in the process because it helps the stencil stick to it. Once you're finished, clean the surface with rubbing alcohol.

• Print off your design - MAKE SURE you are using a LaserJet printer. Inkjets, as mentioned before, will NOT work because they use a different printing process. Use the highest toner setting to ensure a maximum amount of plastic flows onto the paper.

• Place design - Place the image on the piece of copper board. Tape it down tightly.

• Iron - Place your iron setting between 125C and 142C, or medium heat. It may take a little while for this step. Put the iron on the image and GENTLY rub the iron over it. 

• Cool - Immediately place the board in a cooling pool of water or stick it in the freezer for about 2-3 minutes. Once it has cooled, remove the paper. The traces should now be "printed" onto the board. If you are missing any traces, use a Sharpie to retrace these lines

• Etch - This is the important part of the process. Below, I'll explain what you can use as an agent

• Ferric Chloride - This is by far the most popular choice among DIYers. It is a dark brown liquid, but be advised that FeCl3 is not something to be poured down the drain. IT WILL STRIP YOUR PIPES!!! Consult your local disposal agency for more information
• Cuprous (Copper) Chloride - This can be easily made by buying products at your local hardware or general store. You'll need some hydrochloric/muriatic acid and some hydrogen peroxide. Mix 2 parts H2O2 to 1 part HCl. To prevent an extremely dangerous exothermic reaction, "do like you oughtta and add acid to water!" Pour the HCl into the H2O2 slowly and carefully. When you add the copper board in, it releases copper molecules and adds to the solution. The best part about this is you can use this as many times as you want.

• Clean and Drill - Once the copper has been eaten away, remove the board from the solution bath. Clean it off immediately using acetone, available at many stores. If all has went well, the traces underneath the printed image should remain copper. Use PCB or small-size drill bits to create lead holes in the board. Of course, if you're using SMD components, this step won't be needed
• Solder in the parts and you're all done!

    PCB making can be done at home easily, quickly, and cost-effectively. Home PCB fabrication can be useful if you need boards done faster in a short amount of time.

    Now, on to building the Michigan Mighty Mite...

The Michigan Mighty Mite!

 How many parts does it take to get on the air? 10? 20? 100? In the case of the Michigan Mighty Mite, you only need a whopping 7! That's right, 7 parts and you've got yourself a working transmitter. This design has been around for a while and comes from the minds of Ed Knoll, W3FQJ, and Tom Jurgens, KY8I. Here's a circuit diagram of the transmitter itself:

Baofeng UV5R

 If you're a new amateur radio operator, you probably have one of these:

This is a Baofeng UV-5R. Like the Pixie kit, some amateurs talk it up, some talk it down. For a beginner, it's a great little handheld for 2m/70cm operations. It's affordable, being almost $30 or less for just the radio. It can be programmed using CHIRP or by the user themselves, and can have special properties programmed for repeater operations, CTCSS/DCS tones, and much more. Plus it comes with a built-in FM radio! What could be better than this?

Unfortunately, the Baofeng has its drawbacks. It's limited to 5 watts (8 watts with the 5R+), technically making it a QRP rig. It's analog FM only, meaning you can't operate DMR or other digital FM voice modes like C4FM. Lastly, many of these sold at a particular time were not FCC compliant - they could transmit in other frequency ranges other than amateur ranges. Accidental use of these frequencies could mean men in suits and ties showing up at your door with handcuffs, a cease-and-desist, or permission to take away your license for good.

Despite its drawbacks, it's a good radio to have at your side, whether you're new or a seasoned operator. I have one in my school backpack. For as much as it has been slammed on the ground, thrown around, and even stepped on, the radio has survived and hopefully will continue to, knock on wood. 

I have heard from an operator or two that these were made for the Chinese army. This could explain why they are so cheap, since they apparently continue to make too many of them for the army's handling. I got mine when I became an amateur radio operator in 2018 and immediately made a contact out of the box on my local 2m repeater. My signal reports have been good, I've gotten one report which said I had a good, quieting signal coming into that repeater. Of course, I was using a repeater, and the person I was talking to was about 50 miles away from me. 

Being a Chinese product, I didn't expect it to last long. I expected at least two years out of it, but so far it is still working as it should've been six years later!

The Baofeng is an excellent choice for someone on a budget. It's very portable which makes it good for someone who wants portability and versatility. In fact, it could be made into a mobile transceiver with an external antenna from sites like Amazon. Besides amateur monitoring, you can monitor NOAA satellites which transmit APT on the 137 MHz band, and listen to the NOAA Weather radio, monitor law enforcement activity (if it's legal in your area), just to name some things. Programming the radio is stupidly simple, especially if you use CHIRP. It also has an FM radio built in, for receiving local radio stations. You can talk on repeaters with ease on the same frequency setting. Additionally, the battery life is amazingly long. I haven't charged mine in weeks and it is still full!

With every good rig comes the drawbacks. This radio has potential, but its flaws limit it. I don't expect much in power, but 5 watts it too limiting. Something like 10 watts would do much better. It is a solid radio, but don't expect bulletproof performance. One drop in a muddy puddle would kill it for good. The buttons on mine are starting to scratch off, but that's expected for a silicone keypad. Most importantly, no one can repair these. It's best to buy a new one if you were to ruin it.

Besides voice, you can do digital modes like APRS, SSTV, and 8PSK, just to name a few. In the ARRL's band plan, 145.500 - 145.800 has been set aside for "experimental" modes, and most of these modes are a perfect fit here. These modes aren't commercially popular on 2 meters, but some modes have grown popular in recent years. MSK144 is a good place to start too, though operations are better on 6 meters. 

The ISS has SSTV events every so often, and you can receive these images with a Baofeng easily, as well as any other 2m scanner. You can even talk to amateur satellites with the Baofeng's 5W of power. An external Yagi antenna will give optimal results, but I've heard reports of operators using the stock rubber duck antenna. 

In conclusion, is getting a Baofeng worth it? ABSOLUTELY. That's all there is to it. If you're on a budget and want to get on the air fast, getting one of these is your best bet. The only drawback is the quality: some have had theirs for a while and some break right out of the box. Due to the inexpensive nature of these radios, fixing it is just as worthwhile as replacing it. As for programming, using CHIRP is recommended, as it basically flashes a spreadsheet image (.csv/.img file) to the radio.

UPDATE (4/8/22): I previously mentioned that you could use this as a mobile transceiver, not just as an HT handheld. You can buy mounts off of Amazon or even print them using a 3D printer. I am in the process of printing one off from Thingiverse. That project is here. You'll need an external antenna, as your car acts as a Faraday cage, which will block reception and transmission of signals. I am getting a window mount that the folks at Nagoya sell for a relatively fair price. See the link below for more details.

Here are some helpful links:

UV-5R Radio

Nagoya Window Antenna

CHIRP Software

RepeaterBook - Useful in finding repeaters near your area. Available on your mobile device (Android/iOS) too!

Until next time, 73s!

How to operate QRP: A partial guide

It's so much fun to operate ham radio when your on about 50W of power. Unfortunately, the cost of a 50W, let alone a 100W transceiver, is astronomical. Luckily, there's a solution: QRP. The world of low-powered radio communication is full of endless possibilities. With activities such as POTA (Parks on the Air), SOTA (Summits on the Air, usually done from a mountaintop), or even QRP clubs, the world of less than 5 watts is limitless. Unfortunately, low power comes with the consequence of low power. Sometimes, you'll fruitlessly call CQ for an hour with no response, or you'll succumb to QRM, or really bad interference. But don't let that scare you away, as QRP can be really fun! It's all part of the challenge.

As a QRPer myself, I like to build radios, and that's where QRP becomes an art and a trade. QRP rigs are often simple to understand, comprising of at least two transistors. The infamous Pixie kit is a fine example of QRP. Simple to build and easy on the pocketbook, this small radio only outputs around 500mW up to a watt with only two transistors. 

So how does one begin to operate a QRP station? In this post, I'll explain a few simple steps to get started.

The Final Touches

 At last, my paraset is complete, albeit with a few hiccups. First, I couldn't get the switching configuration quite correct. It seemed that every time I tried soldering in the crystals, the switch would begin to melt. Too hot I guess! Other than that, my paraset kit works excellent. Now all that's left is a field test...

So what am I left with since the switching configuration didn't work like I had hoped? There's still the option of putting in a crystal socket, which would make switching out crystals easier. You only need a SIP socket like this. Cut it to where you only have 3 pins, like this.

The only drawback is that you would have to remove the faceplate every time you want to switch frequencies. The pro is that you can use both crystals and resonators as frequency references.

Another option is to bite the bullet and make the switching unit. Unfortunately I don't have very much time when it comes to free time, so until I better my soldering skills, I think that this option is nothing but impossible. Maybe later on down the road it will be possible, but until then I'll have to wait and see.

I have seen many posts and projects that would allow the Pixie to change bands. All that needs replaced are C3, C5, L2, and C6. C3 is in the oscillator circuit, and C5, L2, and C6 are part of the LPF circuitry. There are many crystals that come in frequencies which are close to both CW and Feld Hell portions of the bands, such as 10.140 (10.143 is the Feld Hell frequency), 14.060 (14.063 is Feld Hell), and many more. As stated in the last post, using a variable capacitor between 100 and 300 pF will bend the crystal by 2 - 3 kHz, but results may vary by crystal size. It will also bend a resonator roughly 100 kHz. Adding an inductor within the circuit may also increase frequency range. A value like 5.6uH will suffice.

Whatever I decide, I am overall very happy with the outcome. I can't wait to start learning CW and send some Feld Hell. I think that it will be possible to make more of these easily, but I might have to settle with space constraints. In this project, I used a 4 x 6 metal recipe card box, but 3 x 5 boxes are more commonly available, especially in metal. This project has taught me a lot about craftsmanship, how to get creative, and use what you have available to you. In total, I think this project cost less than $20, well below my budget constraint. Even if you can't get the switching circuit to work correctly, you can still enjoy the Pixie by adding some frequency agility.

As the snow begins to thaw and it starts to get warm out, I have a few locations that I'd like to try my paraset kit at, mainly at the university that I attend. There are so many spaces that will definitely fit a 40m simple wire dipole that are almost or completely unobstructed.

Here are some troubleshooting tips that I have after this building experience:

• No sound - Check the battery voltage, check soldering joints
• Buzzer/sidetone constantly on or faint - Check that the variable capacitor is not touching the faceplate or anything metal. Check the oscillator stage.
• RIT is intermittent or not working - Check solder joints

The list is small, but these were the common problems that I ran into. Of course, these aren't all of the possible problems. The most important thing in any troubleshooting is to go back and retrace your steps. Are your soldering joints good? Are there any loose connections? Are components in the right spot, or have they gone bad? 

I am not an expert and I have no professional testing equipment like an oscilloscope. If you are still having problems, talk to someone who knows how to help or even ask your Elmer, if you have one.

Although this has been a simple modification, the sky is the limit when it comes to the Pixie. For instance, here are some ideas I'd like to try:

• Try replacing the transistors with power transistors to get more power output
• Make the Pixie into an AM transmitter, or better yet, an AM transceiver
• Make a propagation beacon or QRSS beacon
• Add some filtering circuitry to filter and narrow the audio to about 700 Hz
• Try experimenting with different antennas

There is so much more to this list that you can do with a Pixie. Because it is QRP, calling CQ may take a while. If your wrist gets tired, try sending Feld Hell. One advantage of Feld Hell is that it uses less of your transmitter's or transceiver's duty cycle. There is also a multitude of free software that allows Feld Hell operation, such as fldigi. If you have a Raspberry Pi, which can run off of a portable charger, you can take your ops to the field easily. 

Now that I think about it, because I have already drilled a hole for the switch, I could use that hole to put in a power switch. As I mentioned before, when I get better at soldering, I plan on doing the crystal switch. For now, I just want to fill the extra space, so I think a power switch is a great idea. 

To wrap things up, I think that this project has shown me just how simple a transceiver can be. With simple modifications, a rock-bound QRP radio can be as frequency agile as a commercial transceiver, while still being field serviceable. Truly, this project has been a success out of a small failure.

Until next time...

Paraset Pixie

 If you know me, you'd know that I'm a huge fan of homebrewing equipment. I feel that it brings out the true side of ham radio operators. While a nice Kenwood or Yaesu 100W rig is good to have, there's just the feeling of satisfaction in building your own equipment, whether it's built from a kit or from scratch. I don't know why, but I'm obsessed with the Pixie QRP kits. Coming in at a price of near $5 all the way up to $10, it's a reasonable build for anyone who wants to understand how simple a transceiver can actually be. Plus, it can be used for on air operation!

There are many drawbacks to the Pixie, including its wideband receiver and its vulnerability to broadcast band overload. However, in these flaws there is room for improvement. One such improvement is making it frequency agile, with no more than a switch, a crystal, a ceramic resonator, and a variable capacitor. Recently, I have been working to make the Pixie kit into a full-blown mini paraset kit, like the ones used by spies and soldiers alike during the WWII days. It is small enough to fit into a recipe card box, measuring about 4" x 6". Complete with a metal faceplate, a 12VDC receptacle, a BNC antenna connector, and a 50K potentiometer for RIT, this will hopefully be well worth the time and money.

Originally, I had planned to put on a DDS VFO with an AD9850. Unfortunately, I felt that this would take up way too much space and would consume a fair amount of time. In addition to this, it would take away from the simplicity of the Pixie, and utterly ruin the effect of a field transceiver. What I opted for instead was a simpler solution, courtesy of Peter Parker, VK3YE. Below is one of the many videos that I've used along the way.

Once you have this mod completed, the operating trick is easy: find a frequency that is open, with little to no noise activity, and call CQ. One thing that VK3YE explains in another one of his videos is the problem with many QRP rigs. These rigs are frequency-locked, meaning that they are agile for only a few hundred hertz; whereas with this mod, the Pixie becomes operational from 2 - 3 KHz (crystal) all the way up to 100 KHz (resonator), a much-needed modification if you're going to use it on the air. On 40 meters, this is essential and helpful. Here is a rough prototype diagram of what the paraset will hopefully look like:

As you can see, the KEY socket can also be used to transmit Feld Hell. In my previous post, I mentioned a circuit that you can use on any CW transceiver to transmit Feld Hell via an optocoupler. It converts the AFSK signals from software like fldigi into OOK, which is what the Pixie uses to transmit Morse Code. One thing that I must point out is:

CW is a MODE, NOT just Morse Code

Feld Hell is a CW mode, as is Morse Code. I haven't found any other modes that fall into CW other than Feld Hell and Morse.

Now that that's clarified, let's get back on track. Below is an image of my partially-completed paraset.

As you can see, I have a "dummy Pixie." This Pixie doesn't work(?) as I accidentally soldered in the amplifier transistor backwards and, in the process of removing it, mutilated the PCB. The 12VDC socket and the 50K pot have both been installed on the faceplate. As I write this, the rest of the parts are on the way from Amazon, so hopefully I'll get a completed photo up here at the end of the week.

In my opinion, this is a worthwhile modification. Buy yourself a Pixie kit off of eBay or Amazon, get the SPDT switch and the variable capacitor, buy a crystal or two, and a ceramic resonator. The final cost of this project is well within the $20 - $30 range, a cost that is relatively within the budget of a ham who is on a budget, or who wants to get on HF fast.

I can't guarantee that you will be heard the first time, but that depends on your location, your antenna, and the power output. 9VDC will yield a lower power output (around 300 mW) than 12VDC (a bit under 1W). A 40m half-wave dipole performs great with this little radio.

One other thing I should mention: This radio doesn't only work on 40m. You can modify it to cover 160m - 6m with a change of LPF values. That information is below:

Notes: For 10 and 6 meters, replace the oscillator capacitors (C3, C4, and C7) with 47 pF capacitors. For 80 meters, add a 100 pF to C7 to jumpstart oscillation. You might also try experimenting with different transistors to see which one provides the most power output. A 2N2222 or a 2N5401 may give better results.

I know that this is still a work in progress, but I hope that by the end of the week or the beginning of next week, I can update this post with the completed project.

Stay tuned for an update soon to come!

Feld-Hellschrieber: What the Hell is that?

     Today I want to pick on a mode that is the German equivalent to an American's fax machine. Many of you ham operators have heard of Feld Hellschrieber, or simply called Hell. Feld Hell has its roots in the early days of WWII, and although its popularity has died off due to newer, reliable modes like FT8, many ham radio operators continue to use this mode.

    In 1929, Rudolf Hell created a facsimile/fax-like mode that would be integrated into the German army in WWII and going into the Cold War. Although it is not widely used commercially, it has been adopted into the amateur radio community. Many more Hell modes have come into existence, like Hell 105 and Slow Hell. There are many differences between these modes, such as OOK and FSK modulation, but they are all related in the fact that they are all Hell modes.

   

    After seeing my FT8 signals appear on PSKReporter, I figured I would try other modes, more specifically, Hell and RTTY. My RTTY signals were heard on the West Coast, but in checking other sites, I couldn't find my CQ calls sent in Feld Hell. That doesn't mean that I will give up though! I will keep pumping out signals until someone answers my CQ calls or I get spotted.

    I might try Hell on my Pixie kit, as Feld Hell is specifically modulated in OOK (On-Off Keying), just like other CW modes. Using an external switching circuit, I can manipulate the AFSK signals that come from my computer's fldigi software to key the little transceiver using an optocoupler. More information on that can be found in this PDF. In the future, I hope that this is possible.

    Because of my interest in Feld Hell, I decided to join the Feld Hell Club. I was recently accepted and was presented with my member certificate! So far, I have access to 40, 15, 12, 10, and 6 meters, but I'm hoping that I can get access to all of the HF bands, and I might have just the solution. I'm planning to add a DDS VFO to a Pixie so I can surf the bands and send CW or Feld Hell. I might throw on an amplifier in the future, but we'll see what I can do with QRP.

    In the end, is Feld Hell worth it? In a nutshell, yes. It is a fun mode that acts like fax, and it can easily be used on CW only transmitters or transceivers.