PCB making has been around for a while. It's a neat and tidy alternative to the messy deadbug or Manhattan-style construction. You can find PCB designs online or you can create your own.
To begin, you'll need the following:
- A LaserJet printer and glossy photo paper - This is mandatory since an Inkjet printer will NOT work. LaserJet printers print in a special way that gives the best results. You can also use paper called Press-n-Peel paper that is specifically manufactured to create PCBs from laser printers.
- PCB board (FR4) - I recommend you get the single-sided type. These can be bought from Amazon. Double sided boards work if you're needing a 2-layer PCB, but keep in mind this will be a bit more difficult to work with.
- Iron - The heat from an iron will transfer the image to the PCB board
- Sharpie - Needed to cover any parts that weren't covered by the ironing process
- Acid etchant - This is where things get interesting, see a more in-depth description below
- Drill bits - Can be bought from suppliers like Amazon. You'll need them small enough to drill holes for lead wires
That's practically it! Now to begin...
- Design your PCB board - There are so many choices when it comes to software. You can use KiCad, EasyEDA, or any other PCB fabrication software.
- Prepare the board for etching - You'll need some steel wool for this step. This requires you to remove the oxidized layer of the FR4 board. Scrape it off until the copper is shiny and golden-looking. This is a crucial step in the process because it helps the stencil stick to it. Once you're finished, clean the surface with rubbing alcohol.
- Print off your design - MAKE SURE you are using a LaserJet printer. Inkjets, as mentioned before, will NOT work because they use a different printing process. Use the highest toner setting to ensure a maximum amount of plastic flows onto the paper.
- Place design - Place the image on the piece of copper board. Tape it down tightly.
- Iron - Place your iron setting between 125C and 142C, or medium heat. It may take a little while for this step. Put the iron on the image and GENTLY rub the iron over it.
- Cool - Immediately place the board in a cooling pool of water or stick it in the freezer for about 2-3 minutes. Once it has cooled, remove the paper. The traces should now be "printed" onto the board. If you are missing any traces, use a Sharpie to retrace these lines
- Etch - This is the important part of the process. Below, I'll explain what you can use as an agent
- Ferric Chloride - This is by far the most popular choice among DIYers. It is a dark brown liquid, but be advised that FeCl3 is not something to be poured down the drain. IT WILL STRIP YOUR PIPES!!! Consult your local disposal agency for more information
- Cuprous (Copper) Chloride - This can be easily made by buying products at your local hardware or general store. You'll need some hydrochloric/muriatic acid and some hydrogen peroxide. Mix 2 parts H2O2 to 1 part HCl. To prevent an extremely dangerous exothermic reaction, "do like you oughtta and add acid to water!" Pour the HCl into the H2O2 slowly and carefully. When you add the copper board in, it releases copper molecules and adds to the solution. The best part about this is you can use this as many times as you want.
- Clean and Drill - Once the copper has been eaten away, remove the board from the solution bath. Clean it off immediately using acetone, available at many stores. If all has went well, the traces underneath the printed image should remain copper. Use PCB or small-size drill bits to create lead holes in the board. Of course, if you're using SMD components, this step won't be needed
- Solder in the parts and you're all done!
PCB making can be done at home easily, quickly, and cost-effectively. Home PCB fabrication can be useful if you need boards done faster in a short amount of time.
Now, on to building the Michigan Mighty Mite...
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