How to Make Your Own PCBs

     PCB making has been around for a while. It's a neat and tidy alternative to the messy deadbug or Manhattan-style construction. You can find PCB designs online or you can create your own. 

    To begin, you'll need the following:

• A LaserJet printer and glossy photo paper - This is mandatory since an Inkjet printer will NOT work. LaserJet printers print in a special way that gives the best results. You can also use paper called Press-n-Peel paper that is specifically manufactured to create PCBs from laser printers.
• PCB board (FR4) - I recommend you get the single-sided type. These can be bought from Amazon. Double sided boards work if you're needing a 2-layer PCB, but keep in mind this will be a bit more difficult to work with.
• Iron - The heat from an iron will transfer the image to the PCB board
• Sharpie - Needed to cover any parts that weren't covered by the ironing process
• Acid etchant - This is where things get interesting, see a more in-depth description below
• Drill bits - Can be bought from suppliers like Amazon. You'll need them small enough to drill holes for lead wires

That's practically it! Now to begin...

• Design your PCB board - There are so many choices when it comes to software. You can use KiCad, EasyEDA, or any other PCB fabrication software. 

• Prepare the board for etching - You'll need some steel wool for this step. This requires you to remove the oxidized layer of the FR4 board. Scrape it off until the copper is shiny and golden-looking. This is a crucial step in the process because it helps the stencil stick to it. Once you're finished, clean the surface with rubbing alcohol.

• Print off your design - MAKE SURE you are using a LaserJet printer. Inkjets, as mentioned before, will NOT work because they use a different printing process. Use the highest toner setting to ensure a maximum amount of plastic flows onto the paper.

• Place design - Place the image on the piece of copper board. Tape it down tightly.

• Iron - Place your iron setting between 125C and 142C, or medium heat. It may take a little while for this step. Put the iron on the image and GENTLY rub the iron over it. 

• Cool - Immediately place the board in a cooling pool of water or stick it in the freezer for about 2-3 minutes. Once it has cooled, remove the paper. The traces should now be "printed" onto the board. If you are missing any traces, use a Sharpie to retrace these lines

• Etch - This is the important part of the process. Below, I'll explain what you can use as an agent

• Ferric Chloride - This is by far the most popular choice among DIYers. It is a dark brown liquid, but be advised that FeCl3 is not something to be poured down the drain. IT WILL STRIP YOUR PIPES!!! Consult your local disposal agency for more information
• Cuprous (Copper) Chloride - This can be easily made by buying products at your local hardware or general store. You'll need some hydrochloric/muriatic acid and some hydrogen peroxide. Mix 2 parts H2O2 to 1 part HCl. To prevent an extremely dangerous exothermic reaction, "do like you oughtta and add acid to water!" Pour the HCl into the H2O2 slowly and carefully. When you add the copper board in, it releases copper molecules and adds to the solution. The best part about this is you can use this as many times as you want.

• Clean and Drill - Once the copper has been eaten away, remove the board from the solution bath. Clean it off immediately using acetone, available at many stores. If all has went well, the traces underneath the printed image should remain copper. Use PCB or small-size drill bits to create lead holes in the board. Of course, if you're using SMD components, this step won't be needed
• Solder in the parts and you're all done!

    PCB making can be done at home easily, quickly, and cost-effectively. Home PCB fabrication can be useful if you need boards done faster in a short amount of time.

    Now, on to building the Michigan Mighty Mite...

The Michigan Mighty Mite!

 How many parts does it take to get on the air? 10? 20? 100? In the case of the Michigan Mighty Mite, you only need a whopping 7! That's right, 7 parts and you've got yourself a working transmitter. This design has been around for a while and comes from the minds of Ed Knoll, W3FQJ, and Tom Jurgens, KY8I. Here's a circuit diagram of the transmitter itself:

Baofeng UV5R

 If you're a new amateur radio operator, you probably have one of these:

This is a Baofeng UV-5R. Like the Pixie kit, some amateurs talk it up, some talk it down. For a beginner, it's a great little handheld for 2m/70cm operations. It's affordable, being almost $30 or less for just the radio. It can be programmed using CHIRP or by the user themselves, and can have special properties programmed for repeater operations, CTCSS/DCS tones, and much more. Plus it comes with a built-in FM radio! What could be better than this?

Unfortunately, the Baofeng has its drawbacks. It's limited to 5 watts (8 watts with the 5R+), technically making it a QRP rig. It's analog FM only, meaning you can't operate DMR or other digital FM voice modes like C4FM. Lastly, many of these sold at a particular time were not FCC compliant - they could transmit in other frequency ranges other than amateur ranges. Accidental use of these frequencies could mean men in suits and ties showing up at your door with handcuffs, a cease-and-desist, or permission to take away your license for good.

Despite its drawbacks, it's a good radio to have at your side, whether you're new or a seasoned operator. I have one in my school backpack. For as much as it has been slammed on the ground, thrown around, and even stepped on, the radio has survived and hopefully will continue to, knock on wood. 

I have heard from an operator or two that these were made for the Chinese army. This could explain why they are so cheap, since they apparently continue to make too many of them for the army's handling. I got mine when I became an amateur radio operator in 2018 and immediately made a contact out of the box on my local 2m repeater. My signal reports have been good, I've gotten one report which said I had a good, quieting signal coming into that repeater. Of course, I was using a repeater, and the person I was talking to was about 50 miles away from me. 

Being a Chinese product, I didn't expect it to last long. I expected at least two years out of it, but so far it is still working as it should've been six years later!

The Baofeng is an excellent choice for someone on a budget. It's very portable which makes it good for someone who wants portability and versatility. In fact, it could be made into a mobile transceiver with an external antenna from sites like Amazon. Besides amateur monitoring, you can monitor NOAA satellites which transmit APT on the 137 MHz band, and listen to the NOAA Weather radio, monitor law enforcement activity (if it's legal in your area), just to name some things. Programming the radio is stupidly simple, especially if you use CHIRP. It also has an FM radio built in, for receiving local radio stations. You can talk on repeaters with ease on the same frequency setting. Additionally, the battery life is amazingly long. I haven't charged mine in weeks and it is still full!

With every good rig comes the drawbacks. This radio has potential, but its flaws limit it. I don't expect much in power, but 5 watts it too limiting. Something like 10 watts would do much better. It is a solid radio, but don't expect bulletproof performance. One drop in a muddy puddle would kill it for good. The buttons on mine are starting to scratch off, but that's expected for a silicone keypad. Most importantly, no one can repair these. It's best to buy a new one if you were to ruin it.

Besides voice, you can do digital modes like APRS, SSTV, and 8PSK, just to name a few. In the ARRL's band plan, 145.500 - 145.800 has been set aside for "experimental" modes, and most of these modes are a perfect fit here. These modes aren't commercially popular on 2 meters, but some modes have grown popular in recent years. MSK144 is a good place to start too, though operations are better on 6 meters. 

The ISS has SSTV events every so often, and you can receive these images with a Baofeng easily, as well as any other 2m scanner. You can even talk to amateur satellites with the Baofeng's 5W of power. An external Yagi antenna will give optimal results, but I've heard reports of operators using the stock rubber duck antenna. 

In conclusion, is getting a Baofeng worth it? ABSOLUTELY. That's all there is to it. If you're on a budget and want to get on the air fast, getting one of these is your best bet. The only drawback is the quality: some have had theirs for a while and some break right out of the box. Due to the inexpensive nature of these radios, fixing it is just as worthwhile as replacing it. As for programming, using CHIRP is recommended, as it basically flashes a spreadsheet image (.csv/.img file) to the radio.

UPDATE (4/8/22): I previously mentioned that you could use this as a mobile transceiver, not just as an HT handheld. You can buy mounts off of Amazon or even print them using a 3D printer. I am in the process of printing one off from Thingiverse. That project is here. You'll need an external antenna, as your car acts as a Faraday cage, which will block reception and transmission of signals. I am getting a window mount that the folks at Nagoya sell for a relatively fair price. See the link below for more details.

Here are some helpful links:

UV-5R Radio

Nagoya Window Antenna

CHIRP Software

RepeaterBook - Useful in finding repeaters near your area. Available on your mobile device (Android/iOS) too!

Until next time, 73s!